It’s a pub. No wait, it’s a café … and a coffee spot, a rooftop bar, waterside meeting place and a proper restaurant. Reveley extends over three levels and is a little bit of all things to all men (and women).

Its restaurant is the “poshest” of the offers and it cooks sound, reliable pubby food with techniques and styles which propel it into restaurant territory. There’s nothing to scare the punters here – Albany asparagus with cured egg yolk; scallops in a Jerusalem artichoke broth with warrigal greens, lamb with turmeric-spiced pumpkin, and the courageous steak tartare with confit of duck – but the kitchen is having a red-hot go and their dishes plate up beautifully.

The wine list has some cracking back vintages and top producers, but it is demonstrably a document for the price-conscious, which we love. Then there are those views. If, for some reason, you can’t see enough of the sweeping panorama of the Swan River and beyond from the floor to ceiling windows, then retire to the third-floor open-air bar.