A restaurant that lives up to its name and so much more.
The decades-long tenure of Coco’s would still be in the minds of many South Perth diners. Its enviable foreshore location made it, at one time, the place to be. Now the storied site is entering a new era with The Meat & Wine Co. Service is steady and professional, present as required and otherwise unobtrusive, while the room is energetic and fun. Start with aged wagyu tartare; rich but balanced, thanks to egg yolk cream and anchovy aioli. Scallop ceviche, dressed luxuriantly with cucumber, tomato, chilli and avocado cream, is clean and restrained. Meat is obviously the primary draw. O’Connor long grain-fed rib eye from Gippsland is full-flavoured and expertly handled. For sides, think classic wedge salad or decadent hasselback potatoes with dripping butter, caramelised onion and gruyere. Cocktails move between lighter and fruit-driven options to more traditional, spirit-based classics, while non-alcoholic options are treated with similar reverence and skill. Wine spans Western Australian and South African producers, offering range without complication. This is a restaurant that understands its setting and purpose – somewhere that too should stand the test of time.
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