The name might say respect for the past but this CBD brasserie with serious wine credentials is forward thinking and here for the long haul.
Location, location, location. At the front in the old Royal Insurance Buildings, a prime St Georges Terrace address, at the back a part of the Brookfield precinct, and a stone’s throw to His Majesty’s Theatre. Take a spot at the long pewter bar for a few snacks and a glass, maybe three, from their stellar wine list, the direct line of sight into the open kitchen your entertainment. Or settle into one of Perth’s best dining rooms with its old-world brasserie feel, bright by day, dimly lit by night (perfectly primed for business or pleasure), its walls adorned with photographic portraits of West Australian winemakers. Snacks might include skewered ox tongue, punctuated by a generous dollop of gentleman’s relish, or Fremantle sardines perfectly at home on grilled sourdough with fresh ricotta and burnt lemon. Entree game weaves from classic with seared Abrolhos Scallops in their shells, a savoury cauliflower puree the foil to salty-sweet tones, to inventive, quail served as tiny golden crumbed schnitzel with ranch coleslaw and a deep orange-coloured fermented chilli sauce that’s loud enough to be heard but not so loud it detracts from what’s in your glass. Larger plates tread this line also. Mottainai lamb leg, flanked by North African flavour and texture – harissa, labneh almonds and mint. Scotch fillet served over a light mushroom sauce, a circular green array of pea puree, Torbay Asparagus and almonds, is perhaps the more Euro-centric choice. And it doesn’t need to end once you’ve paid the bill. Find sister cocktail bar Bobèche down in the basement or if your head has been turned by the vino, the Wine Store, out on the Terrace will happily stock your cellar.
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