Testùn

A liberal interpretation of the Italian culinary canon offers all killer, no filler.

You have to wonder whether a visiting Italian of the persuasion to go apoplectic over pineapple on pizza or cream in carbonara could spontaneously combust at Testùn. Don’t be surprised to find cherry cola glazes, XO vinaigrettes and Asian pantry staples creeping into the menu. Perhaps they’d take account of the Italian heritage here (the attitude of ‘we can mess with our food, but you can’t’), or maybe they’d accept an argument that any food culture that’s been at the crossroads of trade takes on new ingredients. And maybe it just doesn’t matter, because this neo-Italian osteria is clearly not aimed at everyone and we’re fine with that, as it delivers a singular experience. Your server might chat to you about Mottainai Lamb, often compared to wagyu – a diet of citrus pulp, waste carrots and extra-virgin olive oil pomace imparting marbling and flavour to the meat. Here they’re using loin for tartare, salt-cured and joined by sheep feta, preserved lemon, textural pistachio and toasted buckwheat. Elsewhere on the menu, the lamb collar is served spiedino-style, skewered, coal-grilled and glazed in a barbecue sauce. You might take a steer on wine, go textural and local, or opt for a Franco-Italian love-in. It’s not just certified bangers on the plate, either – the early-to-mid-90s house soundtrack could (if they were your formative years) have you closing your eyes and nodding your head as you slowly move your hands skyward.