Sweetwater is no backwater. It’s a pumping, high energy rooftop bar with outdoor decks, bar areas, a restaurant offering and those epic, eternally sunny views of the Swan River.

Chef Leigh Powers is doing a kind of Longrain-Chin Chin-Apple Daily mash-up with south east Asian plates renowned for their booming flavour. How about a Sino-Japanese mash-up of salt and pepper cuttlefish with wasabi infused aioli? Or Chinese prawn and snapper wantons bigged-up with the perfume of southern Asia – lime, chilli and fish sauce. Things can get heavy too: Mongolian sticky beef with sambal and mini-fried potato matchsticks cannily balances texture and taste.

While it is difficult to look past the shared bites, the mains menu is well-crafted and the Sunday yum cha teapot brunch has become a local crowd pleaser.

Sweetwater is also a unique stop for a drink – with a solid cocktail menu and the bar talent to make them well. It has a well-considered wine list that, if anything, plays it a little safe. Similarly, the tapped beer options are conservative, but if that’s what the punters want…..