Highlyregarded Perth restaurateurs Scott O’Sullivan (Red Cabbage) and Todd Stuart (Petit Mort) continue to successfully hold down the fort at their prospective restaurants while managing to keep the standard sky high at co-owned St Michael. It’s a fly-under-the-radar gem, with superb cooking and gracious, well-modulated service.

There is so much technique and energy going on that it’s hard to keep track of what’s on the plate. But the cookery and presentation stays just short of OTT. In fact the cheffy flourishes amount to well-balanced, outrageously tasty dishes of considerable inventiveness.

Mushroom risotto was served with teriyaki-grilled button mushrooms, pickled shimeji and mushroom crisps. Combined with rice cookery that was perfect to the minute, it was one smack-down of a dish.

Wagin quail was three moist and plump deboned chunks of avian goodness. The breast had been deboned and rolled in its own skin while the two mini-marylands were deep fried. The quail arrived with a sumptuous broccoli purée and broccoli stem salad with white balsamic dressing – explosively, puckeringly delicious. Ricotta gnocchi with cauliflower was more cauli than gnocchi, but not in a bad way. Small, double-crumbed pillows of pan fried gnocchi sat elegantly around a giant floret of fried cauliflower cooked with nutmeg, capers and chilli salsa. Hands down one of the best vegetarian dishes in Perth.

As if the meal could not get any more impressive, dessert – simply named chocolate, cherries, cream – was a culinary mash-up of chocolate marquise, mud cake, white chocolate mousse, cherry gel, cherry sorbet and coffee sponge. All this and a prix fixe three course menu at . . . wait for it . . . $69 a head. This value and this cookery is almost unheard of in Perth.

Hats off to St Michael 6003. Another of the city’s finest.