Basic pasta; puffy, blackened pizza and an aperitif long game. Spritz is as Italian as it gets. There’s nothing revolutionary going on here. It’s like a homely, fast-paced tratt in an Italian rural town with family-style service, cheap prices and pasta and pizza staples.

The wood-fired oven gets a workout with a range of simple pies slipped into its fiery maw to emerge just a minute or two later, smoking and nicely charred. There’s margarita, pepperoni, vegetarian options and that splendid Italian flour-based dough. Pizzas are only available in the evenings.

Chilli mussels are good and there’s a rocking good cavatelli alla Norma on offer as well.

The name says it all. The lads who run Spritz with a mix of snappy Italian service standards and high camp theatrics, have made the Aperol Spritz their signature drink. It’s made at the table with lots of flair and ostentatious pouring of sparkling wine over goblets of Aperol. Great fun.

Desserts? Too bad. There are none. But the staff will direct you to the Italian ice cream shop next door, which the Spritz owners also own.