Paul Bentley’s return from Mexico has given new energy to this Highgate staple, and made the kitchen a force to be reckoned with. Don’t miss it.

A roving bar-restaurant known for late nights, DJs, solid pizza and a penchant for good, natural things to drink made by good natural people, Si Paradiso has in a year or so become a different prospect. Those staples remain, but the presence of Paul Bentley has given the restaurant side a serious nudge (and, notably, made Si – and its newly opened sibling Casa – a proving ground for emerging talent).

Now, whether it’s in the umbrella-strewn courtyard or the dining room dressed with terrazzo, timber and Italian laminate, there’s an energy to the place that’s fast but never loose, with produce and evolution leading the way. So it is that a clever crudo with kingfish and pineapple dressed in tepache or a dish boldly pairing grilled head-on prawns with stracciatella might be here one week, gone the next.

Now, whether it’s in the umbrella-strewn courtyard or the dining room dressed with terrazzo, timber and Italian laminate, there’s an energy to the place that’s fast but never loose, with produce and evolution leading the way.

Blistered pizza is a mainstay, but the ideas stretch things; a marinara will sneak in lobster oil, while garlic bread gets spun into a topping with scapes and burrata. Drinks have a lo-fi, Italianate edge, with a preference for orange, rosé and chilled red while service, like the soundtrack, suits a buzzing, youthful clientele.

Want a glimpse of the future of Perth dining? This is it.