Like the beach house you wished you owned, with food you wish you could cook.

There’s something of the breezy beach house about this place. From the sash windows and the yellow-and-white sun brollies on the deck to the service, which is youthful and familiar in that almost American fashion, there is an air of easy comfort here. The menu is casual, too, with a focus on the ocean that sits just outside those windows.

Oysters, prawns and scallops share space with market fish; on our visit, Hiramasa kingfish was cured ceviche style with orange, dried persimmon and some golden beets for colour.

Oysters, prawns and scallops share space with market fish; on our visit, Hiramasa kingfish was cured ceviche style with orange, dried persimmon and some golden beets for colour.

Much is made of the Josper wood grill, so cauliflower is “Jospered” and scattered over herbed green tahini with hazelnuts. It’s charred deeply from the intense heat, although Shark Bay prawns could do with a little less of the Josper treatment. Much better is the half chicken; grilled again, lightly scented with ’nduja and paired with sweet potato, it’s dripping with flavour.

Local wines are as much a feature as the produce, with a list that suits the setting to a tee. As seems fitting for the setting, the cheesecake with rhubarb ripple ice-cream is a dreamy, sunny finale.