Remember when we’d endure ordinary food just to feast on an extraordinary view? Back in the day, a pretty vista was often a license to dish up rubbish. Change your expectations because Shorehouse is cut from another cloth.

On a sunny day, with a window slightly ajar and Rottnest in the frame, the outlook is as good as it gets. Happily, so is the food. The Shorehouse, overlooking a pristine stretch of Swanbourne Beach, was part of the first wave of oceanside restaurants in recent years which have defied the view-is-death wisdom.

It has a laidback coastal vibe, with food that is both familiar and edgy, and service that is loose but never lazy. The wine list is exciting, encouraging discerning drinkers to try something a little different. An amber wine from Margs legends Cullen is an “orange” wine that delights rather than challenges and is perfect for a sunny Sunday lunch.

The kitchen turns out meats and roast vegetables from its Josper oven — think whopping Linley Valley pork cutlet with plush truffled mash and bittersweet caramelised witlof. Not up for a big meal? Order from the entrees for a smorgasbord of cleverly contrived dishes. Buffalo burrata, charred chorizo and smears of a semi-sweet raisin and marsala jam is a winner.

Moist buttermilk fried chicken in a friendly joust with tangy coleslaw, doused in a tart yoghurt sauce and a dusting of ricotta salata? It’s the ultimate crowd pleaser.

An oven-roasted hunk of snapper looked overdone but the flesh was soft and sweet (that’s the Josper, doing it’s super-hot charred exterior thing while maintaining sweet moistness internally). It needed nothing more than the steamed spring veg it came with.

Breakfast is a big deal at Shorehouse, with families thronging for the $9 kids meal and the eggs Benedict with pulled pork shoulder.

Desserts are thoughtful takes on favourites: a caramel pie is ushered into 2018 with a goat’s curd sorbet.