Samson’s Paddock is one of Perth’s unsung pleasures, with standout flavours, a superb wine list, and charming service. A true local find.

Talk about lifting your game. Samson’s Paddock slipped quietly onto the restaurant scene several years ago but in a couple of years ago it poked its head up and we liked what we saw. Now, chef Georgi Partenov has improved the offer even further. It may not have a roster of hip hospo owners or be considered one of the cool kids on the block, but it sure overdelivers.

Partenov’s dishes are anchored in flawless classical technique yet come with a modernising twist or two. Be it the deliciously tangy South East Asian zing of tender pork belly, or the subtle Mediterranean flavours of succulent duck breast with parsnip purée and port wine sauce, there are dishes for all palates here. Fingers of boneless wagyu rib are a masterclass in slow cooking, the meat finished in a sticky black soy and chilli sauce and topped with house-made kimchi. It’s a house favourite.

Fingers of boneless wagyu rib are a masterclass in slow cooking, the meat finished in a sticky black soy and chilli sauce and topped with house-made kimchi. It’s a house favourite.

Whiskey aficionados, or the adventurous, can opt for one of several different wagyu steak and whiskey pairings from the 100-plus on offer.

The biggest risk with this exposed-brick shopfront is that the upbeat vibe of its wine and whiskey bar, with its Chesterfield sofas, is so inviting you might not get to the restaurant.

Be strong. Push through.

You won’t want to miss the delights of the small dining room. The casual but classy space is one of Perth’s unsung pleasures, thanks to Partenov’s talent with flavours and presentation, a superb wine list, and a floor crew who want you there.

Samson’s Paddock might lack the fanfare of its more bombastic contemporaries at the fine-dining end of the spectrum, but it’s that rare friendly and affordable neighbourhood restaurant, which is something of a find in the suburban streets of leafy Mosman Park.