A tiny slot of a restaurant in Bicton serving up seriously good Thai street food with the service and heart to match.

The welcome you get when walking into Rym Tarng is positively exuberant. The tiny room in Bicton only has a handful of tables, but the amount of sunny positivity packed into that room can’t be overstated. “Rym tarng” translates to “on the side of the road,” which is a nod both to the restaurant’s location, and the food served – which aims to recreate food you might find road-side in Thailand.

Start with the pork and prawn doughnuts, rounds of minced meat and crustacean coated in a panko-like dredge and fried to a golden crisp, with plum sauce for dipping.

Start with the pork and prawn doughnuts, rounds of minced meat and crustacean coated in a panko-like dredge and fried to a golden crisp, with plum sauce for dipping. From there you can move on to fiery curries, or packed-with-flavour noodle dishes, or the signature pork jowl cooked to a sticky mess and served with local mushrooms, toasted rice and nam jim jaew sauce. The tom kha soup here is a full meal, rich and creamy, with your choice of mushrooms, chicken or prawns. (It’s also one of the few mains without a hint of spice; much of the menu is full-bore fiery.)

A fantastic addition to Perth’s Thai restaurant scene, for its food, yes, but also for the uplifting experience of dining in a place where the hospitality is unmistakable.