A tiny suburban Thai with surprising pedigree packs a punch.
This pint-sized Bicton restaurant established by Long Chim alumni, is named for its ‘on the side of the road’ location. Now in its third year, its popularity shows no sign of waning. While many lounge rooms are probably bigger than the compact space occupied by 16 or so seats, dining in (rather than taking your bounty home) affords the pleasure of friendly service, spying on what the neighbours are having, and the sounds and smells of Thai herbs and spices doing their thing.
Tender, bite-sized fish cakes made with local amberjack and silver trevally restore faith in an entrée that in the wrong hands can end up rubbery. There’s a depth of flavour and heat in the classic green chicken curry, served simply with Thai eggplant, basil and kaffir lime leaves. The chef’s special of plump, decently charred choo chee prawns wins the day for presentation and subtle smokiness. Book ahead to avoid joining the often substantial takeaway queue.
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