A suburban Thai diner with fire in its belly and warmth within its walls.
Bringing the spirit of a Thai street cart into a tiny twelve-seat room on the southern streets of Bicton, Rym Tarng delivers far more than you’d ever expect from a neighbourhood Thai spot. A black-and-white mural of market trolleys sets the scene, while pops of orange, bright green glasses and patterned flower pots enliven the decor. Take a seat next to the open kitchen and tune in to the soundtrack – the hum of fire and the rhythmic percussion of clattering woks, all under the direction of its conductor, former Long Chim chef Art Bunraksa. Once the menu lands, order the pork and prawn donuts without delay. Piping hot and golden, the crisp breaded shell cracks to reveal its hefty, meaty, peppery filling that is best doused in sweet plum sauce. Pad Thai proves itself anything but suburban-standard, a thin omelette giving way to bouncy rice noodles, bean sprouts and tofu caramelised in sweet tamarind. Ask the staff for direction and they’ll nudge you toward the pork jowl – smoky and tender, with edges blackened just so, finished with a sweet, sour, fiery Jaew sauce and a tangle of mushrooms. And if you see the whole fried market fish flying past to another table, and experience acute FOMO, don’t stress – there’s always a next time with Rym Tarng.
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