Ria does a modern, hip version of Malaysian street food and it does it very well. It might have some modernisms injected into its flavour base and techniques but it plates up food a Malaysian would be happy to eat.

Ria has been a colourful addition to the Asian food landscape in Perth and has built up a fine reputation with regulars, Leederville hipsters and students who happily line up to get a table on weekends.

Rendang is a dry-style curry of braised beef with lemongrass and one of the most fragrant, rich dishes on the menu. Stir fried kai lan with pork belly was finished with the very un-Malaysian ponzu. Daring but well executed.

Ria is a large restaurant covering two contiguous shop fronts and with seating for 100 plus. Our recommendation? Perch at the bar and enjoy an Asian-inspired cocktails. You can even eat at the bar, where a frosty beer and a plate of turmeric spiced Malaysian wings are the ultimate bar snack.