Not only is Scott O’Sullivan one of the finest chefs in WA – he has previously been awarded The West Australian Good Food Guide Chef Of The Year prize, two years in a row – but he plates up his stylish, flavor-busting food at great prices.
Most chefs of his caliber are putting a fern frond on the plate and charging $60 for the pleasure of their company. O’Sullivan is a serious chef, but his dishes are often full of whimsy and fun and with references to childhood food experiences and taste memories of years gone by.
It’s not a stretch to say that O’Sullivan is a totally customer-focused chef and restaurant owner. Sure, his food can be challenging and outside the remit of more modest restaurants, but nothing is show-offey about it. Not that he has to have cheffy swagger coming from the kitchen, because his highly skilled food does all the talking for him.
No hyperbole, he truly is a great chef. Dishes like scallops, cured prawn, beetroot ferment and burnt apple are a journey of sourness, sweetness, crunch, lingering smoky flavours and impeccable cookery. He has a dish called salted baked swede, which on the occasion of our visit he had changed out for celeriac. The celeriac had been slowly roasted in salt and then pitched directly on to hot coals where it proceed to go black and charred. It was dressed with a house-made yoghurt dressing and crunchy pangrattato-like pumpkin granola. It knocked our socks off.
Sullivan’s food is among the best in WA. Red Cabbage is one of the State’s finest.