Confident food in a relaxed setting drives the menu at Red Cabbage. It’s a welcoming space, tucked into an unlikely office block overlooking the freeway on-ramp in South Perth. Locals love it, so do couples, old friends and birthday parties.

Manchester-born owner-chef Scott O’Sullivan is one of Perth’s finest, picking up a swag of awards over the past 11 years. He’s been Good Food Guide chef of the year twice already and continues to push boundaries with his seasonal mod-Oz cuisine.

The menu is small and makes the most of locally foraged plants and river grasses. Kick off with a complimentary amuse-bouche and tuck straight into starters. Even Jerusalem artichoke gets star treatment, treated to sous-vide till it’s oozy soft then deep fried for a crispy skin. It’s stacked on parmesan custard with a drizzle of smoked oil and garnish of pickled red onion, capers, jalapenos and sunflower shoots.

Hint: This vegetable has nothing to do with religion but draws on the Italian word girasole (sunflower) because it’s part of the sunflower family.

Dishes are beautifully plated and well executed, except for inexplicably tough house-made tortellini, while garnishes shine, highlighting bush-tucker fruits, exotic spices, Indian influences and Japanese flavours, the latter a foil to a decadent rectangle of confit lamb shoulder and sliver of pink rack.

The wine list is concise, with mainly WA labels, including Margaret River and Perth Hills fizz. Service is informal and chatty, so if you’re not sure, just ask.