Pizzica is Margaret River’s not-so-secret, secret spot and one of the most authentic, real, generous, unpretentious and rustic pizzerias we’ve had the pleasure to review. There are pizza and pasta restaurants we’ve eaten at in Italy which are not a patch on this little restaurant.

Pizzica is set in a windowless basement which surrounds you with soft golden lighting, the warmth of raw, red brick walls and low ceilings. It’s a sprawling nooks-and- crannies kind of place with rough-hewn tables and an open kitchen. Pizza is the thing, but the kitchen cranks out a Porchetta the likes of which we’ve rarely seen.

There’s a range of wood- fired meats and stuffed breads called puccia and a strong line-up of wood-roasted meats, including pork ribs, lamb chops, free range chicken and a 400g T-bone. You’ll want to wash this down with a big Italian or one of the many Margaret River wines on the list and you won’t be disappointed.

Start with antipasti. Impeccable cured meats and cheeses are simply served. There are 17 pizzas on the list and not a piece of pineapple to be found! Many of the pizzas abide by the rule of less is more, with just a smattering of toppings and flavours allowing the outstanding dough to be heard.

There is also a range of roast meats off the chargrill – anything from pork to lamb chops to chicken. Dishes don’t come with fashionable garnishes or affectations. When the menu says lamb chops, that’s what you get.

Team it with a $10 side of vegies or wood-roasted potatoes. Pizzica is about as far removed from the region’s famous, posh winery restaurants as you can get. It is humble and rustic. But it is neither slapdash nor lazy. The service is delivered with pace and confidence.

We’ve fallen a little in amore with Pizzica.