Finding joy in the small things and remaining faithful to its inspiration, Pinchos delivers simplicity and welcome with ease.
There’s always a danger that labelling something “authentic” will ultimately mean that it won’t ring true, but let’s perhaps just say that Pinchos knows where its inspiration points lie. While chef-owner Justin Bell is English, the core team seem to be predominantly Latin (if not Spanish) and have a grasp on the bar culture and the more intangible vibe of Spanish bars, and the pintxos culture of the Basque country.
There’s simple joy in ordering Gildas in multiples; the guindilla pickled peppers, white anchovies, and green olives skewered on a pick, best followed with a cold Alhambra beer and chased with boquerones, albondigas and more.
The tear-and-tick sheet ordering can soon add up. There’s simple joy in ordering Gildas in multiples; the pickled guindilla peppers, white anchovies, and green olives skewered on a pick, best followed with a cold Alhambra beer and chased with boquerones, albondigas and more. Loading up on the smaller dishes as you go, an ordered rotation of plates being served and cleared, is the way to go.
In a group? Indecisive? “Feed me” options cover all bases. And while there’s undoubted simplicity in some of the dishes, Bell and his team show they’ve got chops with their carrilleras: slow-cooked Stirling Ranges beef cheek on cauliflower purée. That’s winter covered, while the small bites and beers are a reliable year-round draw to keep the crowds satisfied.
