When Justin Bell announced he was selling his highly successful Jus Burgers businesses, we all said “oh no!” Then he told us he was freeing up his time and energies to concentrate on his Pinchos tapas bar in Leederville and we all went “Yay!”

No one – yes that’s right, no one – is doing Spanish food as authentically, as smartly and as cleverly as Pinchos in Leederville.  Bell – an East-Ender with a proper cockney rhyming slang game – had no other desire other than to deliver a tapas bar one might find in Spain… in the backblocks… not the tourist haunts. He has over-delivered with an all-Spanish crew pumping out beautiful morsels from tiny, two buck bites on a tooth pick (aka, Pintxos) like white anchovy, guindilla pickle and olive or chorizo, honey, goats cheese and pickle, to main courses (raciones) like slow-roasted beef cheeks with port wine and cauliflower or rosemary honey lamb with kipflers and beetroot cream.

Pinchos’ tapas game is good too, with plates from $9-$14 including faves like patatas bravas, chicharrones and albondigas (Spanish meatballs in a tomato eggplant sauce).

There’s Spanish wines. They do breakfasts. And every now and then they take the kitchen to the street and make massive pans of paella kerbside.

The highest compliment we can pay this place is to suggest to any Spanish folks who may be missing home, to pop into Pinchos and soak up the very Spanish food, wine list, people and lots of cool Spanish vibes.

And for the rest of us, save yourself the airfare to Madrid. Pop into Pinchos instead.