Faithful to its inspiration, Pinchos delivers simplicity.
There’s always a danger that labelling something ‘authentic’ will ultimately mean that it won’t ring true. But let’s just say, Pinchos knows what its inspiration points are. While chef-owner Justin Bell is British he’s got a good grasp on the brief and the more intangible vibe of Spanish bars, and the pintxos culture of the Basque country. The tear-and-tick sheet ordering can soon add up. There’s simple joy to be had in the gildas (order multiple); the guindilla pickled peppers, white anchovies, and green olives skewered on a pick, best followed with a cold Alhambra beer and chased with boquerones, albondigas meatballs and more. Loading up on the smaller dishes as you go, an ordered rotation of plates being served and cleared, is the way. Whether indecisive or a novice of the Spanish culinary canon, ‘feed me’ options for groups of four and more are an easy way into the best parts of the menu if you love to be led. And while there’s undoubted simplicity in some of the dishes, Bell and his team show they’ve got chops with their carrilleras (slow-cooked beef cheeks with port wine and cauliflower puree, perfect for cooler months), and the small bites and beers are a year-round draw.