The State Buildings have taken pride of place in Perth. The linchpin is Petition Kitchen. Pared-back concrete, exposed brick, filament lights and leather seating make for a dark and broody room. It’s sophisticated and intimate, busy and vibrant, yet with an air of casualness.

Head chef Jesse Blake cooks well beyond his years, favouring WA produce and native ingredients and with a zero food waste policy. Dishes are innovative: Sharing is recommended but more substantial offerings do just as well solo.

Grilled Arkady lamb shoulder is a tangle of shaved lamb topped with dandelion gremolata and served in pan juices with accompanying flatbread. Pair it with steamed, then roasted Brussels sprouts topped with Comté cheese, sunflower seeds and buttermilk.

Dessert? Left-over skins of Jerusalem artichokes scent a wobbly glossy custard in a chocolate and hazelnut dessert.

The staff are well briefed and professional – ask about a dish or a wine and they’re the full bottle. With award-winning sommelier Emma Farrelly calling the shots as head somm and creator of the venue’s wine lists, it’s no wonder the booze is on point.

Want a pre-dinner drink? Petition Wine Bar and Merchant is just a cocktail-olive throw away from Petition Kitchen, and if, for some reason you can’t finish your wine there, bring it through to the restaurant. It’s become a hot spot for business lunching but is active all day and is one of Perth’s coolest meeting places.