Come for the pizza, stay for la dolce vita.

Known for its traditional Roman-style pizza, Pappagallo has built a faithful following, Italian or otherwise. A degree of reverence defines the cornerstone elements: the dough has the tick of approval from Associazione Pizzerie Italiana while the San Marzano tomatoes are DOP-certified. And the finished product has all the hallmarks of pizzaioli who know their way around an oven: blistered crusts and ingredients in fine balance, from buffalo mozzarella to ’nduja. This is, most definitely, a pineapple-free zone.

You could quite happily pigeonhole Pappagallo as a pizzeria alone, but a vast range of other dishes traipsing through Italy are worth exploring, too.

You could quite happily pigeonhole Pappagallo as a pizzeria alone, but a vast range of other dishes traipsing through Italy are worth exploring, too. Burrata from Victoria Park’s feted La Delizia Latticini, say, paired with punchy caponata, Sicily’s own eggplant-capsicum-caper-olive combo. Or pork ravioli della casa (the filling changes daily) with a seasonal hit of Manjimup black truffle.

Drinks have a strong aperitivo line, with Spritzes and Negronis leading the way, while a strong Italian showing is backed up by the addition of few mainline locals in the wine stakes. So often Italian all-rounders fall over by trying to offer too much of everything to everyone, but Pappagallo manages to hold its own through it all, a taste of the sweet life in Leederville.