The decor may be cartoon-like but the food at this Japanese-inspired eating den isn’t playing games.
There’s a lot going on at this rebellious new Japanese izakaya, opened by the team behind Subiaco’s Shui. Neon lights and cyberpunk artwork? Tick. A splashy omakase experience? Yep. A kilo of caviar for $7200? Sure, why not – you can order that when you book. But look beyond the flashiness on the surface and there’s something fundamental holding it all together: the actual food. Led by Shane Middleton (ex-6Head and Fleur), it’s a mix of Japanese classics (nicely cut and shaped super-fresh nigiri and sashimi) plus more creative dishes with a bit of off-kilter cleverness. The karaage is a generous serve of fried chicken, clustered next to a pool of Kewpie mayo, chilli oil and wedges of fuchsia pickles. Wagyu tataki – sliced almost katsuobushi-thin – is nicely balanced with yuzu ponzu and garlic chips. And there’s a proper kick to the spicy seafood temaki. The drinks are solid, too, with a thumping selection of sake, cocktails, and local and international wine. If you’re looking for placid Japanese energy, all ginkgo bonsai and windchimes, this isn’t it. Tokyo party vibes and food that matches the exhibitionist streak? Book now.
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