A smart-casual, long-lunching Swan Valley venue, with an emphasis on hyperlocal produce and indigenous flavours.
Seasoned chef Rohan Park’s first venture heading up a kitchen provides a much welcome addition to the Swan Valley dining scene. Having worked through a number of Margaret River wineries and alongside Fervor’s Paul “Yoda” Iskov, the menu is relaxed in style, yet ambitious, with an emphasis on native ingredients and a commitment to locally grown and reared produce.
Beef shoulder falls apart at a touch, but the real star is the kangaroo tartare, constructed with youlk – a crisp, native tuber – and cured emu-egg yolk.
The menu is made for sharing, the “feed me” option made for easy group dining. It might mean a plate of kingfish cured with botanicals from the Old Young’s distillery, lifted with a hit of pepperberry. Or surprisingly crowd-pleasing crocodile chorizo, as much a draw as crisp, light jamón croquettes. Beef shoulder falls apart at a touch, but the real star is the kangaroo tartare, constructed with youlk – a crisp, native tuber – and cured emu-egg yolk. The kangaroo is lightly brined to restrain its gamy quality, the whole dish smartly paired with fried crisps made from yesterday’s bread.
Considering Old Young’s is also a distillery, spirits have a strong presence on the drinks list, which is rounded out with a solid selection of Swan Valley wines, no- and low-alcohol options and craft brews. The offer of half, single or double pours is one more thoughtful touch, meaning day-trippers from the CBD have options. A strong newcomer, hitting its straps nicely.