Old school yet modern, fancy yet informal, fine dining yet flexible; Oggi is difficult to classify, but in some ways its broad church approach makes it all the more satisfying.

It’s the kind of place you’d happily take your parents for a special night out. The service, while not formal, has an old-school courteousness to it. Napkins are laid over laps, a specials board is brought to the table, large, hard cover menus are deployed and all this in a smart and delightfully unfashionable setting.

Floor staff are happy to forego the entrée-main-dessert confines so groups can share plates or couples can order a few plates to taste dishes their way. Presentation is contemporary and, again, touched with hints of old school technique and plating.

A trio of lamb teams a crisp shank croquette with a blushing French cutlet and a tender slice of loin steak. It is superbly cooked by the hugely experienced and European trained Kempf.

Melting beef cheek and beef medallions play with house made crisps, Paris mash, kale and mushrooms. Meal sizes are generous and prices approachable, encouraging revisits to the extensive wine list.

Owner Michael Tamburri has one of the finest retail cellars in Western Australia. It is just next door and yours for the plundering.

After dinner try “chocolate and more” a dessert worth squeezing in. It’s an ensemble of caramelised white chocolate rocks, toffee macadamia and mousse-filled chocolate tubes surrounding a decadent brownie.