Greek inspired but Freo to the core, this bar excels whether it’s in the glass or on the plate.

There’s a two-gear thing happening at Ode to Sirens. At lunchtimes and in the early evenings, this bar-meets-taverna in the heritage listed P&O Hotel is a relaxed affair. Light floods in through large windows, the all-analogue soundtrack switched to a globe-trotting selection of cruisy retro gems, and the menu of Greek favourites ideal for a leisurely graze over cocktails, a bottle of assyrtiko or a beer or two from an impressive mostly local list both packaged and on tap. As the night wears on, the mood turns more to party as the volume skyrockets, an ebullient younger crowd takes roost and socialising becomes the main event. The food, like beautifully cooked lamb gyros, the meat juicy and beautifully spiced, or a textbook Greek salad, is available no matter the mood and worth paying a visit for itself. The same could be said of the cocktails that lean savoury (the Magic Mo-Menta is a refreshing triumph of white rum, fernet and lime), many of which are on-theme, like a martini garnished with fetta-stuffed olives. A Greek-accented blast, no matter which gear you choose.