A Northbridge newcomer that combines restaurant, wine bar and bottleshop in one.

This Northbridge newbie in hipster territory pays cryptic-codename homage to its chirpy neighbour and family member, The Bird. Was that Northbirdge or Northbridge? Before long it’ll be Northbird, in fact, but enough with the word games. Just sit back in the black – very black – wine bar/bottleshop/restaurant and swirl your way through natural and small-producer drops that are as easy on the palate as the setting – all bare brick, soft lighting and dark timber – is on the mood.

Sit at the bar and it might mean couples pairing a La Sirene sour or a Fletcher nebbiolo with a textural play of thinly shaved octopus draped over escabeche, sunchoke and crisp guanciale. Take a sidestep to the restaurant through the moongate, and it’s all about shared plates designed to pack a punch – charred Brussels sprouts on a buttermilk emulsion, say, or steamed goldband snapper with burnt leek and onion.

Take a snack-drink approach until you hit the sweet spot, and if you fancy what you’re drinking, the bottles are available takeaway from the wine shop.

Dishes are large, and on the heavier side, so take a snack-drink approach until you hit the sweet spot. And, if you fancy what you’re drinking (La Violetta pinot, perhaps) bottles are available takeaway from the wine shop.

Northbirdge took a huge hit shutting down just five weeks after opening but it’s used the time to polish and refine, running leaner and meaner, with room for just 39 covers in place of 100. Whichever way you look, it’s well and truly back in the black, with a tone and temperament that shines through.