Japanese dining with a stellar global reputation is the big ticket at Crown.

At the Perth outpost of this global fine dining juggernaut, the crowd is very much in the category of special occasion diners or perhaps hotel guests. It’s one of Crown’s headline restaurants, after all. There’s a certain lustre, undoubtedly thanks to the status of chef and founder Nobuyuki Matsuhisa and the star-magnet calibre of his venues.

Some come especially for the signature dishes, like the black cod miso or yellowtail sashimi with jalapeño, which give a deft nod to the crossover of Japanese technique and South American flavours. Others hand over the reins and are wooed by the signature omakase. Going it alone, you should just explore the menu, dipping into precise and well-handled nigiri and sashimi, or cold plates like the octopus tiradito – a raw dish of Japanese-Peruvian origin. While the black cod miso gets a lot of glory, the pepper-crusted Glacier 51 toothfish with balsamic teriyaki could be a crown-stealer – one of the best uses of a fish that is a favourite among Western Australia’s fine dining chefs.