There’s lots of good Japanese around these days and in recent years the city’s ngiri and sashimi game has seen huge improvements. And yet, the improbable collision of Peruvian and Japanese food cultures, pioneered by chef Nobu Matsuhisa, remains one of the best Japanese offers in Perth. Its combination of lavish dining space, spectacularly fresh fish and Nobu’s signature Lima-meets-Tokyo plates – yellowtail sashimi with jalapeño; seared tuna with wasabi salsa; and three varieties of ceviche – create a compelling and festive mix of high-energy showbiz, rapid service and refined cookery.

We’re big fans of Nobu’s little tacos, made not with soft tacos, but deep-fried crunchy versions. The seafood varieties – salmon, lobster and tuna – are the pick of the seven tacos on offer. The Peruvian-influenced dishes are the best on the very, very long menu. Tiradito is a Peruvian raw fish dish which is different from ceviche only in the way the fish is cut (cubed for ceviche, sliced, sashimi style, for tiradito). There are six to choose from, all spankingly fresh and citrusy.

You can go large with a 500g rib eye with shiitake truffle butter. But best of all, the sushi bar is as traditional and good as you’ll find anywhere. In fact, we recommend a seat at the sushi bar where you can talk directly with the sushi masters and order as you go.

Wines and wine service are good, but it’s not the main game here. Try sake instead: there are many and varied options, served either warm or cold, depending on the individual sake. A good sake is a revelation – as complex and well structured as a good wine.

Best of all, Nobu is boisterous and fun and a little bit Hollywood.