Tokyo meets Lima at Nobu with sashimi, tacos and salsa. It’s fusion cuisine with showbiz glitz in a smart dining room a world away from the pokies and tables on Crown’s gaming floor.

Chef Nobu Matsuhisa is an international food star with Hollywood connections and a chain of Nobu restaurants that continues to grow every year. You can spend a lot of money at Nobu – some of the sakes and wines are eye-wateringly pricey – but you don’t have to. Perth diners are a price-conscious mob and they pack out the massive Nobu dining rooms every day of the week.

Start simple. Lobster tacos are a cracker. Literally. Deep-fried wonton wrappers become mini taco shells and they’re crunchy and crackly and filled with diced shellfish, swirls of dressing and a garnish of coriander and shredded daikon.

Choose omakase – Japanese degustation – for a taste of the kitchen’s finest creations.

Otherwise, graze from a large and wide-ranging menu. Portions are not huge and dishes are designed to share. Many dishes, such as yellow-tail sashimi jalapeño and black cod miso are forever dishes, which, quite rightly, will never be removed from the menu. Soft-shell crab tempura with cubes of watermelon in a cold citrusy sauce is shaping up as a new favourite.

Crunchy, salty, sweet, tangy, brilliant.

Two teppan tables in alcoves at the back of the main dining room are popular with birthday bashes and there’s a traditional sushi bar where you don’t need to book. It’s here where the real quality of the Nobu kitchen is on display – as in nowhere to hide. Their raw fish is exceptional – spanking fresh, with a spritzy, ocean flavour. Our recommendation? Make sure you try any of the sushi bar’s ngiri, sashimi and sushi. It is the best in Perth.

Service is pacey and upbeat. Walk into the restaurant and you’ll be greeted with a shout of “Irasshaimase!” from the staff (it means welcome in Japanese).

The wine list is large and across all price points. If you’ve had a good night on the tables, you might order the 2004 Domaine de la Romanee Conti at $19,000 a bottle. Or perhaps a Hokusetsu 10-year-old sake which, we’re told, is aged to the sound of classical music.