Consistency is the key to this pleasantly grungy den of desirability which feels the southern Italian love right down to its mushroom agrodolce, sidekick to its ever-popular grilled bistecca.

Propped up at a tall table in this narrow-as-an-arrow space, it’s the hottest spot on the strip to sip a Godfather old-fashioned, mixed with Italian brandy. We love the gnocchi, tomato sugo, cavolo nero and mozzarella – as do its old faithful regulars who flock to sample its Sicilian wines by the glass, hand picked by wine buff and owner Emma Ferguson.

Is it a bar or restaurant? You decide over Sicilian green olives and marinated octopus, which often segue to something more substantial.