Maybe it’s a little gushy to say, but No Mafia is a unique, friendly wine-driven restaurant offer that you can’t help falling in love with. We talk often of X-factor at the Good Food Guide and this small hole-in-the-wall restaurant, in the heart of Northbridge bar and restaurant land, has X-factor to burn.

It’s real and proper and styled with a southern Italian sentiment. The food has a Sicilian bent. A lot of the wine comes from the south too. Although with co-owner Emma Ferguson’s passion for wine – especially new and interesting styles of “orange”, organic and low-intervention wines – the list here was always going to be a treat. There’s a lot of well-known and little-known WA titles as well.

Ferguson and her partner Dan Morris also own and operate Balthazar in the city, so they know their stuff. Like Balthazar, they take No Mafia’s food program seriously. And it’s not all from the south. Sicilian beef cheek with soft polenta embraces both the north and south of Italy on one plate. A simple plate of gnocchi with tomato sugo is big on fresh, ripe flavours.

A recent re-vamp saw some new booths installed at the back of the room, giving serious eaters a place to sit down comfortably. There’s also been improvements in the kitchen, with new equipment, giving the cooking team greater capacity to stretch themselves.

No Mafia has landed at the intersection of easy friendly service, a simple but exciting menu and an amazing wine and drinks program.