Inner-city Italian that trades on house-made pasta and a sharp wine list.
While this bar-restaurant has been part of the small-plate circuit since 2014, the interests of owners Emma Ferguson and Dan Morris have grown in that time to include CBD bolthole Balthazar and Vin Populi in the port city. No Mafia has grown up too, moving to bigger digs on William Street giving more space and scope than its hole-in-the-wall origins. Strengths here are solid cooking, a confident wine list (something of a trademark for the duo) and the easy charm of a mostly-Italian waitstaff. The room is intimate and low-lit; when quiet it’s the staff that bring the energy. Expect a mix of regional Italian dishes – stracciatella drizzled with honey and almonds, a creamy, balanced opener which sets the tone. Long dismissed as Italy’s cheapest salumi, mortadella sings inside a crispy, doughy gnocco fritto – rocket and parmesan adding a sharp edge. House-made pasta is the backbone; there are no alternative mains. Pappardelle with mushrooms and duck is a standout: hearty and deeply seasoned. ’Nduja and calamari is a balanced union of heat from the former and lightness from the latter, served on tagliolini. The wine list is tight yet thoughtful, Italian makers sharing the stage with West Australian favourites and a tidy back-bar of amaro. The recipe for longevity here is undoubtedly sticking to the brief and genuine brio.
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