Muneki Song’s eclecticism continues at this sophisticated stalwart of Perth’s dining scene. For more than a decade the former helicopter pilot has been navigating fusion cuisine with aplomb. Signature angel hair pasta with earthy wild mushrooms, napped in a creamy mirin-infused sauce topped with ocean fresh tiny popping-candy-esque tobico fish roe remains. As does the discrete service and noir vibe.

Translucent scallop with orange sauce is simple and elegant, seaweed and bamboo salad is clean with sesame hits, and confit duck with tempura onion is superbly restrained. Desserts have waned since the glory days of the matcha brûlée but this rare BYO fine diner still has it.

The Bulwar Street dining room is dark and intimate. Serving staff are gently efficient. Song has a personality which shines though in all his “out there” dishes, but the food is unmistakably Japanese delivered with high skill levels and precise cooking. But it’s the flavor that really hits you, as they say. It truly is “wow” food.