Natural wine and a nostalgic food focus are a perfect recipe for WA’s latest entrant into the burgeoning wine-bar landscape.

The wine focus at Nieuw Ruin – a Freo outpost from the team behind Perth’s Foxtrot Unicorn – is impressive. The list of self-described “weird wine” spans to over 300 bottles from independent makers, many of which are the visionary labels – local or international – that have pushed the natural and low-intervention wine scene forward in recent years.

In the capable hands of knowledgeable and passionate staff, it’s a place of discovery. So too with cocktails, where a seasonal menu leans on native produce and small-batch spirits.

With a contemporary lens, Young plays on healthy amounts of Australiana and wider culinary nostalgia, crafting a menu that’s not simply derivative of wine-bar menus the world over.

On the food front, former WAGFG Breakthrough Talent winner Blaze Young helms the kitchen in her first turn as head chef. With a contemporary lens, Young plays on healthy amounts of Australiana and wider culinary nostalgia, crafting a menu that’s not simply derivative of wine-bar menus the world over.

Think clean, fresh garfish rollmops; a rich rabbit and pork-belly pie floater; tinned sprats with excellent house-made dark rye, or monkfish “under a fur coat”, a dainty layered salad that could come straight from a Russian Women’s Weekly cookbook.

It’s a confident, even brave menu. The trick? Pulling it all together, and pulling it off with a level of finesse that will doubtless see Nieuw Ruin court national attention and a keen local following.