A new Fremantle institution, backed by a young team and a chef with serious smarts and talent is bucking trends with serious aplomb.
Where so many chefs are happy to recycle trends or crib influences from contemporaries, Blaze Young of Nieuw Ruin treads her own path. Who else would have the confidence to serve marron not in its shell, but chopped up, turned through mace-spiked butter and baked just to the point of being set? Or to stuff cauliflower cheese into a filo pie served atop a rich pool of French onion gravy? These are ideas reflecting a cook not just happy to colour outside the lines but with ability to back it up.
Inside or out, for snacks or a blowout, this is surely one of the most exciting new venues in the country, led by a chef with the smarts to make it tick.
When things are simpler, like with deboned, butterflied whiting or trout grilled over coals, the execution is spot on, flesh moist, skin crisp. There’s an energy to the place, too, thanks to a floor team who know the product and seem excited to be there. They’ll guide you through the wine offer (with an eye on sustainable winemaking) with ease, or steer you to their favourite cocktails on a list backed by real talent on the tins. Inside or out, for snacks or a blowout, this is surely one of the most exciting new venues in the country, led by a chef with the smarts to make it tick. Looking for the future of WA dining? This is it.