Must’s menu has barely changed in a decade. Charcuterie plates, steak frites, simple seafood and bistro-style side dishes still dominate its elegant menu. It was once the darling of the glossy-mag set, lifestyle shows beat a path to its door, and it had won a string of awards in the 2000s for its wine list and smart, classic French bistro food.

Times of changed and the world is beating a path to other doors these days, but the solid, consistent bistro offering at Must keeps on attracting a legion of fans (who probably don’t need southern fried chicken or kimchi steamed snapper in their lives).

Oysters have always been a mainstay. They are always good at Must

Steak frites has been on the menu since day one, and consistently among the best.

Whole grilled Shark Bay tiger prawns, is a cracker of a dish, made beautiful by its simplicity. The prawns had been charred on the grill and dressed with a sauce verte and the killer-diller flourish, pickled chilli.

Must has long had a reputation for its charcuterie. And it’s as good as ever, particularly a glossy liver parfait and a chunky, country-style terrine with perfect seasoning and spice.

It’s previously award winning wine list might not be as grand as it once were, but it’s still one of the best in WA and up there with the rest of the country. Wine service too, is smart, helpful and encyclopaedic.

If you want to experience a restaurant by grown-ups for grown-ups, Must is a welcoming starched napkin restaurant with superb cooking and as casual as a bistro should be.

How does Must Winebar stack up in these febrile, fashion-driven times? It’s good. Very good.