In its heyday, Must was the bi-word for modern, French-style bistro dining in Perth. Its charcuterie, in particular, was the best in Perth with extraordinarily glossy rillettes and sleek, sublime duck live parfait, consistent headliners on its menu. It still rules the roost with its charcuterie and its cooking, now simpler, is as good as ever.

In recent times it has transformed its menu to meet a dining market which has changed dramatically over the past decade and to meet the changing tastes and demands of punters. There’s nothing revolutionary or on trend about the food, except that good cooking with exemplary ingredients is never not on trend. Dishes like pan roasted salmon with local asparagus and brown butter; Wagin Duck, duck leg confit with braised white bean ragu and a tidy frissee bacon lardon salad to the side.

Simple dishes like the bistro staple, a 150g minute steak, are smaller dishes more attuned to the way we eat these days, and teamed with frites, bearnaise and a green salad. Classic, comforting food. If you want to feast: the $66 Arkady lamb plate for two or more – seared rack, slow cooked shoulder, romesco, carrots, capers and parsley salsa – is one of the tastiest, value for money dishes in the city. Sides? Do not go past the Paris mash.

The Must drinks team care about the wine list and cocktail making. Bar staff know their stuff (no clueless ingénues here) and are happy to recommend. Most dishes come with a wine paring recommendation on the menu. Always helpful.

Must may have fallen off the radar a little under the onslaught of a slew of new high-profile restaurant openings in recent years, but it remains a stalwart for good bistro-style cookery, punctilious and generous service and terrific wine service.