Last year’s The West Australian Good Food Guide Chef Of The Year Guy Jeffreys continues to hit it out of the park at Millbrook Estate. His simple, produce-driven plates are all about what comes from his massive, abundant kitchen garden or from nearby farmers raising animals to his specifications.

For city folk, it’s a drive (or chopper ride) to get to the rolling hills of Millbrook Estate and sample some of the finest rustic food being plated up in WA. Ignore the big, barn-like dining room and its limited décor. You’re here for the food and the not insubstantial wines from Millbrook and its sister vineyards, Lake’s Folly, Deep Woods Estate and Smithbrook.

It’s difficult to pick a dish to rave about here, because the menu is beyond seasonal. It changes as the kitchen garden releases its bounty, which might mean broad beans for a few weeks, then the arrival of root vegetables may change the menu. There are, however, some stalwarts. At the time of reviewing in early spring, chef was plating a vegetable relish with paté and crostini, stunning duck hearts with orange and popcorn and charred octopus with chorizo.

We’ve raved about Jeffreys’ viognier braised rabbit risotto with bacon and fennel in previous years – if the restaurant had a signature dish, this would be it. The kitchen’s rice cookery is spot on with a risotto that is just al dente, a silky-smooth starchy sauce and nicely “wet.”

Something more substantial? The broad bean tip salad with lamb rump and burnt rosemary sauce is plate-lickable. Jeffreys has moved his family on to the farm in recent years to bring him closer to his produce and to live a simpler “patron chef” lifestyle. We think his tree change has done wonders for his food. Rustic, simple, accomplished. Millbrook Estate is one of WA’s best restaurants.