The merry vibe of this stalwart from Chris and Foni Pollitt permeates from a kitchen that churns out casual pub classics to complement a wine list worthy of the classy surrounds.

When the clock strikes five, office workers descend on this gastropub for a well-earned drink and, perhaps, an Angus beef and bacon burger when several Gage Road Single Fin Summer Ales bring on a hunger later. The West Perth hangout is equally busy on leisurely Saturdays as groups of friends and family gather to celebrate. So far so standard on the pub front, but open sommelier Foni Pollitt’s wine list and things get serious, with 29 pages covering growing regions from WA all the way to Georgia.

So far so standard on the pub front, but open sommelier Foni Pollitt’s wine list and things get serious, with 29 pages covering growing regions from WA all the way to Georgia.

She and husband Chris are just as discerning in sourcing seasonal produce, with particular emphasis on meat – see the Amelia Park lamb shoulder for two with all the trimmings or Margaret River wagyu rump cap served with rocket, a wedge of lemon and pitch-perfect béarnaise (the accompanying duck-fat potatoes, sadly, aren’t as successful). They’re standouts on a vast menu that covers pub classics as well as more refined fare, be it pasta with blue swimmer crab, natural oysters, or rich, generous bangers and mash.

The setting – a handsome bar, pressed-tin ceilings and bentwood chairs – keeps things polished and worthy of a name that evokes one of London’s ritzier districts. Lucky us to have it all right here.