Cor blimey. This English-style pub and dining room — a crafty combination of ingredients to please the junior miner roosters, the pint-swillers and the worker bees in the heart of West Perth, is far from stuffy.

Guys in hi-vis gather around a high table on the sun-soaked verandah while a gaggle of girls from the office get a cheeky lunch inside. The space seamlessly moves from outdoor tables to public bar, a lounge area and more discreet upper-level dining. Curios are strewn about and a rather impressive shelf of empty bottles — ghosts of long lunches past — adorns one wall.

The service is smart, chatty and attentive. Owners Foni and Chris Pollitt are an earnest presence on the floor – the former always on hand to dispense her encyclopaedic knowledge of wine and spirits. Foni’s thoughtfully curated wine list invites you to find a new favourite.

The main card wends its way around the world, with Blighty bites such as banging bangers and mash with fat onion rings, and fish and chips. Beef eaters will be drawn to the selection of Stirling Ranges cuts that come with lipid-defying duck-fat potatoes. There’s even a Scotch egg. An entree of superbly fishy Freo sardines atop thin slices of baguette with hummus and caramelised onions is a nice nod to WA.

Same goes for their version of Perth’s signature pasta dish, angel-hair pasta and crab, boasting generous bundles of blue manna with a hint of chilli and basil. An exquisitely underdone Wagin duck breast on a beetroot puree of Peckinpah proportions might have done with a touch more rendering but that’s being picky.

Mayfair Lane exudes its owners’ warmth and passion, and it’s the kind of local worth travelling for.