The name says it all. Mayfair Lane is a pub, but a pub with a difference. Its wine list is truly epic and a big feature of this West Perth dining room. It’s an old-world space with pressed tin ceilings, chandeliers and bentwood chairs in the heart of office land, where financiers have been known to quaff four bottles of Ruinart in one sitting.

Sixteen champagnes, assorted sparklings and hundreds of titles from around the world, including 66 by the glass. The list is deftly curated by sommelier and co-owner Foni Pollitt, who took over the long-standing watering hole with husband Chris last year. Anyone looking for something special can choose from “dining room tipples”. Not sure? Just asked the waitstaff, who know their stuff. There are also 16 beers and a cider on tap.

Relaxed, fun, classy, stay-as-long-as-you-like Mayfair Lane serves pub favourites like bangers and mash, fish and chips, tarts, burgers and steaks, including a tartare with soft-boiled quail’s egg. The tomahawk weighs in at 1kg and is designed to share, but carnivores in suits often tackle it solo.

Food stacks up. Mostly. Crunchy beer battered WA snapper with piquant tartar sauce and mushy peas is a staple. Savoury and sweet tarts show the kitchen can turn out a decent pastry. Crispy pork belly salad may be short on crackling, but it’s generous and well cooked.

Stake out a table on the veranda come summer and watch the busy West Perth world pass by your open-air table.