May Street Larder presents a beguiling mix of full-blown, full-fat modern dude food – smoked beef brisket hash with crispy potatoes and creamed corn – and full hair shirt healthy – vegan bircher muesli with almond milk, coconut kefir and poached rhubarb.

The all-day menu is a split personality with something for everybody. The “soul sandwich” is southern fried chicken on a polenta waffle with smoked sour cream, chilli maple syrup and jalapenos. Is there anything finer on a Perth breakfast menu? The healthy person in your life might like a cold-pressed juice to wash down a cocowhip breakfast bowl with cocowhip, “lupinola”, braised strawberries and apple compote.

May Street is a big, bright room catering to families, groups of health-conscious women in active-wear (and you thought the Western Suburbs was ground zero for Lulu Lemon), and young blokes needing a little hair of the dog.

The coffee here is first class, as are the traditional big breakfasts.

Our recommendation? A bloody Mary and a double espresso followed by a “hot bird” – spicy buttermilk fried chicken, American cheese and fancy sauce on a pretzel bun.

The service is fast, casual and friendly, but it’s the extraordinary cooking most people come for.