This may be the most pointless review in the Good Food Guide because of the sheer difficulty of getting a table. Every three months chef and owner Moe Oo posts Marumo’s ensuing three- month reservation schedule. Spots go at lightning speed: people are known to hover over their keyboards when reservations go live just four times a year.

All this fandom is for Oo’s lovingly curated and masterful omakase-style menu. The former IT grad turns out memorable, blindingly fresh dishes from his tiny bolt-hole of a kitchen – with only the occasional help of his wife and a clutch of young energetic waiters.

Your eight courses might include finely shaved Freo octopus atop intensely smoked green soba noodles and crunchy Puy lentils or a jammy beetroot ice-cream with fine beetroot julienne, green tea and yuzu mousse and white chocolate shavings.

There are playful twists too, including crumbed, toasted rice cracker, the base for deep-fried melon, oyster mushroom and a fluffy, creamy cauliflower sauce. Or meat and two veg Japanese style: a pressed “log” of shredded confit duck, crisped in a pan, and served with glistening green baby soy beans and an otherworldly silky carrot puree. The root is cooked in milk, cream and kombu, then blitzed to aerate. It shows what a wunderkind can do with a Thermomix.

There’s usually a sea-fresh sashimi and sushi course, with a palate-cleanser of yuzu orange sorbet delighting. Marumo is a great mix of genuine passion and incredible value in a modest setting – you can even BYO. You may have to wait a year for a table, but persevere.