Omakase restaurants are notoriously hard to book, few more so than this unassuming diner. Reservations open every three months and disappear in minutes. While the demand for seats is big, Marumo itself has just enough space for a couple dozen guests, one well-mannered floor team plus the bright ideas of Moe Oo, captain of the kitchen and the Mo in Marumo. (His wife and restaurant manager Marie, meanwhile, is responsible for the rest of the restaurant’s name, plus the cheery service.)

A golden choux pillow is filled with smoked trout mousse, topped with zesty sabayon and refreshed with salmon roe.

Unsurprisingly, seafood is a cornerstone of the keenly priced seven-course menu. Sashimi sparkles with vigour while the seared salmon belly and prawn tempura sushi roll remains a signature. A golden choux pillow is filled with smoked trout mousse, topped with zesty sabayon and refreshed with salmon roe.

Toothfish tempura with dashi and burdock root is savoury-rich, and grilled beef cheek shows off Oo’s broad grasp of technique. The offer of BYO further underscores a commitment to value. For those lucky enough to land a table, raid the cellar for something suitably special to celebrate.