What the Cottesloe beachfront needs is a new-age wholefoods restaurant that looks like a whimsical My Little Pony daydream,” said no one ever. No one, that is, except restaurateur George Kailis (the guy behind Shorehouse and Gibney), who has zeroed in on exactly what the hospitality world needs right now: a unique vision.

Magic Apple takes loose inspiration from the hemp-and-hessian health food stores of the 70s and 80s (remember all that carob and alfalfa?), but the hippy stuff isn’t nearly as prominent as the name suggests.

Yes, you enter underneath a splashy pastel rainbow and, yes, the ceiling is splodged with a candy floss collage. But the food—which is vegetable-forward without being entirely vegetarian, and has a confident focus on colourful bowls and smoothies—is healthy eating without the po-face.

Fresh spring peas and roast root veg are crisp where they should be and earthy elsewhere. There’s teriyaki sauces and house-made pickles to stop it all feeling too squeaky clean, and even carnivores will love dishes such as the breakfast seasoned beef and poached eggs.

Yes, they have wine, because you’re here for a good time, not a lecture. Magic Apple is doing its own magical thing. And what a joy that is.