Lupolab opened its doors in July this year and was immediately bowled over by the crowds. They roast their own beans on the premises and one suspects the splendid coffees – there are different varieties and roasts to choose from – are the big attraction for the morning crowds.

The food is not to be sneezed at though. It is a mostly Roman playbook with dishes like cacio e pepe, pasta carbonara and ingredients like pecorino, guancialle and pancetta as star turns. The cookery is no fuss, no fad, no surprises and well done.

Classics abound on the short lunch card, including a pasta salsiccia e porcini, a classic Tuscan blend of sausage and forest mushrooms. Eggplant parmigiana is straighforward and, thankfully, not overly cheesy or greasy. Saltimbocca alla Romana, a flash-cooked veal escolape dish, is made fragrant and salty with sage leaves, prosciutto and burnt butter.

The wine list takes a scattergun approach with titles predominantly from Italy, and a few from Margaret River and the Barossa Valley.