Who can resist a cosy pasta restaurant named for the chef’s nonna? Not many, especially when said chef is creating food that’s this enchanting.
Since opening his Subiaco restaurant in 2016, Joel Valvasori has established himself as Perth’s most adept maestro of pasta and antipasti. But it’s about far more at Lulu La Delizia. Warm wood, orb lighting and walls lined with wine provide classic, cosy atmosphere. The wine list is mainly Italian (or Italian-style Australian), and many bottles are pleasingly affordable. Waiters are knowledgeable enough to guide you, and relaxed enough to tease you for ordering too much food – which you definitely should do.
Spaghettini with clams, white wine and spigarello is as classic as it is delicious, the sauce clinging to the al dente noodles just so.
A serving of Nonna’s meatballs with soft polenta and parmesan is perhaps too heavy a starter if you’re filling up on pasta later, but it would be a crime to guide you away from these plump, perfectly-seasoned beauties. Saffron- and gin-cured kingfish spruiked with juniper-infused vinegar and topped with crunchy celery hearts is a burst of sweet-fleshed freshness.
Do save room for the main event, because these pastas are something special. Spaghettini with clams, white wine and spigarello is as classic as it is delicious, the sauce clinging to the al dente noodles just so. Veal, pork, vegetable and red wine ragù enveloping tagliatelle is pure comfort. Indeed, this entire restaurant could be described that way – a bastion of comfort, warmth and dependably enchanting cooking.
