The Le Rebelle experience is simple and likeable and with an underlying sophistication to it. It’s all about flavour, an easy style, engaged service and a chef who’s trying to delight us.

He is Liam Atkinson, one of the city’s finest. It is French bistro in style but with influences from Szechuan to Sydney and Naples to Nice. Things like, potato negro with chilli pepper squid, and Szechuan spiced crispy shrimp and blue manna crab toast. This $10 crab snack on a brioche toast soldier is retro smart. The crab topping is generous, bound with just the right amount of a zesty mayonnaise.

Atkinson’s Wagin duck with frites and béarnaise is a simple confit of duck Maryland, wonderfully cooked, rich, well brined, fudgy and moist. A big pot of béarnaise on the side is a chip magnet for the massive mound of highly seasoned frites. Swoon-worthy.

Gnocchi with truffle, peas and a light veloute sauce is worth the trip alone and a side of frise au lardon with a runny sous vide egg perched on top is a meal in its own right and a nostalgic nod to the classic French bistro starter.

Service is swift, charming, impeccable, but relaxed and pitched just right.

Le Rebelle is full of life and vim and charm. Punters pack in tightly. It is noisy, busy and cheerful and happy in its skin – a restaurant that knows what it is and why it exists.

It has a French accent but is a citizen of the world. It’s a right proper inner-city bistro with food to love, atmosphere to burn, charm and a noisy vigorous crowd.

It has a smart medium sized wine list with interesting new age wines. Service is cheerful and direct and a great night out.