The name may say rebellion, but Le Rebelle is one of Perth’s most likeable newcomers, with an accomplished chef slinging French-accented fare, and a killer wine list and service to boot.

The Le Rebelle experience is simple and likeable with an underlying sophistication. It’s all about flavour, an easy style, engaged service and a chef who’s trying to delight us.

That chef is Liam Atkinson, one of the city’s finest. At Le Rebelle, he’s slinging fare that’s French bistro in style but with influences ranging from Sichuan to Sydney and Naples to Nice. Think crisp double-spiced shrimp and blue manna crab toast. Said crab toast, $6 a pop, is retro-smart, coming as a brioche toast soldier topped with meat bound with just the right amount of zesty mayonnaise. 

Atkinson’s Wagin duck with frites and béarnaise, meanwhile, is a simple confit of duck Maryland, wonderfully cooked, rich, succulent and moist. The big pot of béarnaise on the side is a magnet for the massive mound of highly seasoned frites. Swoon worthy.

Wagin duck comes with a big pot of béarnaise – a magnet for the massive mound of highly seasoned frites. Swoon worthy.

Seasonal gnocchi with mushrooms and parmesan cream is worth the trip alone, while a side of frisée aux lardons with a runny sous-vide egg perched on top is a meal in its own right, and a nostalgic nod to the classic French bistro starter.

Service is swift, charming, impeccable, but relaxed and pitched just right.

Le Rebelle is full of life and vim and charm. Punters pack in tightly and the place is noisy, bus, cheerful and happy in its skin – a restaurant that knows what it is and why it exists. A restaurant with a French accent that’s a citizen of the world with food to love and atmosphere to burn. Add a smart wine list pushing new-wave drops and cheerful and it adds up to one heck of a night out. Mon dieu.