Cutting its way through Beaufort Street’s ever hip line up, this leading neo-bistro works extra hard to raise the bar across the board.
A deboned chicken wing lands on the table. It’s fat and cider-glazed and stuffed with pork sausage. A crisp-skinned piece of trout follows, buttery leeks playing off a rich almond sauce underneath. Then a pressed Wagin duck breast arrives, skin nicely rendered, flesh nicely pink, swimming in jus and accompanied by a boat of béarnaise and way too many frites. At every turn, Le Rebelle finds ways to cram ever-more impact into its dishes, but this has become de rigueur for Beaufort Street’s own rebellious neo-bistro: start French, look outwards, add more on top, then bring it all together with finesse and flourish.
At every turn, Le Rebelle finds ways to cram ever-more impact into its dishes, but this has become de rigueur for Beaufort Street’s own rebellious neo-bistro.
No doubt this is one of Perth’s essential bookings, as evidenced by the hordes crammed around leather booths and stools and baby-blue tables. And why not? Co-owner Sarah Atkinson works hard to make the room comfortable and energetic, encouraging staff to express their personality and schooling them on her outstanding wine list. That crab toast remains a standout (although the flesh could be more loosely bound), but more impressive is a salad riffing on Waldorf with fragrant green goddess dressing and roasted macadamia for crunch. Bright, precise, and like Le Rebelle itself, a pleasure to behold.