L’Chaim

The cocktail bar at The Old Synagogue embraces the spirit of the speakeasy with style and substance.

First-timers to this speakeasy-style bar in the basement of The Old Synagogue may really need a drink by the time they work out how to find it. Down a flight of stairs and behind two hidden doorways, the relief felt after finally making it into L’Chaim is quickly matched by the pleasure of the dimly lit, low-ceilinged room. Atmospherically cluttered shelves filled with vintage glassware and old books, a chandelier behind the bar, booth seating and a jazz soundtrack immediately sets the mood to cocktail and the list does not disappoint. A page of house original cocktails, all named after jazz musicians includes numbers like the Nina Simone, a beautifully balanced mix of gin, mandarin and lime topped with a white wine and bergamot foam, garnished with star anise. The extensive classics list includes well-made versions of boulevardier and paper plane. The snack selection, perhaps a slight nod to upstairs restaurant Tonic + Ginger, are pan-Asian (fried squid, kingfish sashimi) and easily assembled into dinner if you decide to settle in. Service can slow when the bar fills but the quality of the cocktail making never falters.