A gem of a bistro inside a boutique wine store.
A beach view isn’t the be-all and end-all in Cottesloe. Tucked away on Station Street (see, no view), you’ll find some of the best fish and chips in town, inside a wine store no less. Delicate fillets of Shark Bay tempura whiting arrive with shaved fennel and lemon. Hand-cut Royal Blue chips, ordered separately, are fat, crisp and glistening with rosemary salt. Both dishes are reliable staples here. Brilliantly structured, the menu encourages sharing. Spears of white asparagus from Carnarvon come dressed in a stunning, almost-drinkable sambal butter (do not waste a drop) while fall-apart twice-cooked lamb pairs with earthy beetroot, topped with a thicket of peppery rocket and a dollop of tzatziki to the side. The single-page drinks list ventures to home regions and beyond, but you can’t go wrong with a glass of Lamont’s own Swan Valley SSB. Alternatively, choose a bottle from the racks, and note the ‘drink here’ price. Somewhat disguised by the stacks of Jon Jens’ wine cartons out front, it’s easy to miss, but after 16 years, it may still be one of Perth’s best-kept secrets.
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