Tiny, usually crowded, and famously dominated by crates of wine and an open kitchen, this unique hybrid venue – wine store, bistro, bar, all-day eatery – has long been the preferred haunt of western suburbs food and wine lovers.

With a wine list curated by local guru John Jens and a menu created by celebrated WA chef Kate Lamont, why would it not? Lamont’s Wine Store has consistently hit the mark over the years, but, even so, it’s better than ever: Portions veer toward ample.

Try sweet fillets of fresh whiting inside a feathery tempura or the flawless flavours of chermoula lamb T-bones with couscous, toasted hazelnuts and salsa verde. Desserts, too, speak of home and comfort and are, like everything about this venue, memorable. Little wonder Lamont’s has one of the most bolted-on, loyal customers bases in a restaurant in WA.