Already a local favourite, this Yallingup eatery is on the fast track to setting the standard of an all-day dining destination in the South West.

In establishing his first venue as chef-owner Ben Jacob has succeeded, it seems, in covering his bases. Opening in Yallingup offers the challenge of catering to a discerning local clientele, not least those on “the hill”, one of WA’s priciest property locales, as well as a holiday crowd who perhaps have different culinary motivations. But Jacob has managed to create a menu that will satisfy most for breakfast, lunch and limited weekend dinner sittings.

Seafood figures largely, with big-hitting dishes such as Esperance octopus that has an inner tenderness often found lacking, yet delivering a crisp outer char that shows Jacob knows the essentials of a legendary occy dish. ’Nduja brings bold spice, while grapefruit marmalade a hit of bitterness.

Lagoon has a sense of where it is. Dishes of dhufish wings and goldband snapper speak to the ocean just up the road.

Jacob’s food skirts the casual-yet-refined line that is the muse of modern hospitality, with simple but delicious seasonal dishes. An heirloom tomato and nectarine salad with stretched curd served up in midsummer sits well against bigger beasts on the list. Baby cos dressed with white anchovy, pecorino and shallot could grace the menu of any new-wave wine bar, yet Lagoon has a sense of where it is – dishes of dhufish wings and goldband snapper speak to the ocean just up the road, then there’s the “groms menu”, the fish and chips to go, and the ’nduja sofrito po’boy adorned with white anchovy for the big kids to wrap their hands around.

Moments from the beach, with an aesthetic that says upscale beachcomber, Jacob and team are already riding high in the stakes of WA’s top oceanside eateries. And, we sense, this is just the start.