This husband-wife seaside venture taps into the holiday mood with a beach-house aesthetic, then backs it up with clever cooking centred on seafood.

A sleepy beachside setting. A young, ambitious chef. A menu that celebrates seafood. The threads come together nicely at Lagoon, the breezy indoor-outdoor space given a contemporary beach-house spin with shades of white accented with cane, timber and bleached coral, and the menu given enough attention to make it far more than your everyday fish café.

Yes, there’s eggs on toast and pancakes for breakfast, but move to lunch, and it’s an all-seafood affair where the kitchen is limber enough to add interest to standout species and flex with the day’s supply.

A caramel infused with Sichuan and green peppers casts new light on flash-fried squid, while hot, crunchy balachaung butter (touching on chef Ben Jacobs’ Burmese heritage) brings fragrance to grilled broccoli.

This might mean charred Esperance octopus riffing on Spanish and Italian influences with kipflers and ’nduja, then adding marmalade for a bittersweet accent. Or it could be fat dhufish wings fried in rice flour, the sweet flesh dusted with seaweed powder.

A caramel infused with Sichuan and green peppers casts new light on flash-fried squid, while hot, crunchy balachaung butter (touching on chef Ben Jacobs’s Burmese heritage) brings fragrance to grilled broccoli.

A one-page white-heavy wine list that highlights local drops – most bottles under $80 – plays into the chilled tone, as does service with a light touch. Dessert? Soft-serves in waffle cones (which has since moved to the kids menu) keep the holiday vibes rolling long into the afternoon.