Lady of Ro sits plump in the middle of Subiaco’s boho block – next to languorous Juanita’s Bar. New owners, the Zammit family, have kept the kitsch grotto feel, with eclectic furniture spilling onto the sidewalk.

It’s part of the charm. Chef Paul Zammit bangs out LoR hits like charred broccoli with bagna cauda from the funicular charcoal grill but has added a Middle Eastern/Israeli edge. Silky smoked eggplant doused in thin yoghurt sauce, radish wafers and rosy toasted zhug (spice) infused broth is delish.

Freo octopus is braised in oil for up to three hours, drained and charred to caramelly, crispy, tender fingerlings. A lightly seasoned pull-apart lamb shoulder is surrounded by aromats, and molten ricotta chocolate cake will keep you coming back.

With BYO, this is casual food at its best.