Energetic Italian wine bar with snacky share plates and an interest in regional Italian grapes and rare amaro.
The lights are low, candles cast a glow on bottle-packed shelves, and the scrawl on the blackboards behind the communal bar lists wines that are freshly opened. Start here, and charismatic waiters are likely to give you a steer, then offer a sip or two until you hit the sweet spot, whether that’s with skinsy Tuscan Ampeleia Bianco made with a blend of co-planted grapes, or chilled grignolino with a little spritz to it. Needless to say, drinks are a pleasure, extending to a bottle list celebrating small growers working with Italian varieties, right through to a double-page of amaro, from soft and herbaceous to bracingly bitter and medicinal. But they’re just part of the story, with couples easing into tables for two and piling into snacks that quickly turn into dinner. Crumbly focaccia makes fast friends with a plate of Sicilian-style fava bean dip given interest with fennel jam. Crostini are loaded with house ricotta and nicely collapsing caponata. Swordfish skewers go the sweet-sour route, too, with raisins, onions and pine nuts combining in an alluring agrodolce. And then suddenly you’re twirling tagliatelle around wild mushrooms and splitting the grilled pork chop cut wickedly with mustard fruits for mains. Now, where’s that digestivo?
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