One of the best in Perth’s food-truck scene brings the allure of street food into a new casual coastal Mexican restaurant and small bar in South Fremantle.
After establishing Eat No Evil as the Perth food truck to track down, Ben Fossilo has put down roots with La Cabaña, replacing tires and metal with full-blown bricks and mortar.
That’s not to say Eat No Evil is dead and buried – the truck still makes it out from time to time, and grabbing a seat at La Cabaña’s bar means seeing Fossilo working the open kitchen like the old days, repping the same brand of innovative street food he made his name on. Step outside into the courtyard, though, and things take a turn. This is where this kind of food is meant to be enjoyed – in the sunshine among leafy, tropical surroundings, with South Beach just a hop and a step away.
As for the dishes, expect traditional and not-so traditional Mexican fare given enticing twists, and a focus on local, seasonal and native produce. Pork al pastor tacos, say, dressed with native-strawberry adobo and pineapple salsa. Or corn tentacles – an unmissable sight on every table – charred to elevate their sweetness, with tang from pickled cabbage and vegan mayonnaise. Esperance amberjack ceviche, accented with avocado, coconut and pepperberry, provides welcome freshness, with crunch from a tostada base.
It all suits a tone built on carefree beachy vibes and good times, with plenty of gluten-, dairy- and nut-free dishes to go with an ample vegan offer, plus a bar pushing well-crafted Margaritas, Palomas and a broad range of mezcal and tequila. Service, honed by years in the street-food game, is fast, friendly and attentive in equal measure.
If Eat No Evil was about the thrill of the chase, La Cabaña is proving that settling down can be just as thrilling.