Knee Deep just keeps improving. Chef Baxter Newstead’s outrageous talent shines in everything on the plate. His techniques are at a level of accomplishment that only comes from the best training, followed up by Sisyphean levels of hard work and commitment.

No surprise then that Newstead has been awarded the Wustof Knives West Australian Good Food Guide Regional Chef Of The Year, 2017.

In recent times, the owners have seen fit to zhoosh the place in keeping with the improved food. It’s still a restaurant on a shed-like veranda in the middle of a vineyard but a paint job, new lighting, floor-length windows and white tablecloths have upped its game.

The prosaically titled “duck egg” was a molten 63°C egg yolk teamed with an onion puree and a beef fat emulsion, which for all intents and purposes was a sabayon, made with aged, rendered beef fat instead of butter. Grilled asparagus tips added crunch and brought the scent of the jarrah-fuelled wood grill to the party. It was busy, but delicate, wantonly flavourful, clean and balanced.

Buffalo milk stracciatelle was all alabaster creaminess and sour tang – the perfect foil for shredded roast onions, a rye crumb and broad beans grilled over the jarrah fire with smoked butter and elderflower vinegar.

Getting the idea? This is remarkable food.

Knee Deep has that rarest of things at a Margaret River winery restaurant, a proper wine list with titles from around Australia and the old world.  Knee Deep is one of our great restaurants.