Japanese treats abound but a seat at the sushi bar is the ideal perch for those dreaming of Tokyo.
Need some guidance about what to order here? Remember the name. There’s a plethora of Japanese treats on offer besides sushi, though, the substantial menu a veritable greatest-hits list that includes beef tataki (Margaret River wagyu), tempura, agedashi tofu, chawanmushi and chicken karaage. But for those looking for the primo experience at James Parker, it’s at the eight-seat sushi bar. With its comfortable armchair seating, seafood-packed refrigerated glass-fronted display cases and front-row access to the knife skills and calm hospitality of chef Naoyuki Suzuki and his crew, it’s easy to feel transported to Tokyo, even before the first morsels of quality seafood begin to land. The local stuff is well-represented – sashimi of Fremantle Octopus is a textural, flavoursome standout – but there’s also Tasmanian bluefin tuna, Coffs Harbour cuttlefish flavoured with soy and ginger and wrapped around just-warm rice, slivers of silky Hokkaido scallop and pungent Chilean uni. The sake list is worthy of attention too, especially the three sake flights (with helpful tasting notes) comparing and contrasting the subtle differences of storied Junmai makers. Add the sculptural timber ‘fish bone’ installation at the entrance dividing sushi bar from dining room and James Parker delivers a night (and name) to remember.
In other news
