Indigo Oscar continues to beat an enchanting drum for Latin American food in one of the state’s most celebrated and internationally recognised seaside venues.

Despite its pop-up status, Indigo Oscar, perched in Cottesloe’s beloved Indiana Teahouse, is the venue that keeps on keeping on. Rather than sitting on its hands as locals await news of the building’s ultimate fate, there’s a new head chef in the building, with Steve Finch making the move from Cooee, another Z1Z venue.

The direction is still very much Latin American with an eye for WA produce, but chef Steve Finch brings a deft touch to proceedings.

The direction is still very much Latin American with an eye for WA produce, but Finch brings a deft touch to proceedings. Think spot-on tuna yellowfin tuna tostadas with avocado and sesame and refreshing zing and heat from lime and chilli. Or an adults-only mezcal and watermelon salad that’s essential ordering alongside heftier dishes, such as roast Mount Barker chicken or a tomahawk steak, served close to rare with savoury chicken jus and pepitas. And there’s texture and harmony in Akoya oysters in a sauce of amarillo pepper and makrut lime.

It tracks well with the polished setting, but it’s the sight of the sun going down over the Indian Ocean that really sells it – add the prospect of nursing a Negroni or swirling a glass of white from as far as the Canary Islands or as close as Margaret River, and it’s a clean sweep.