A hidden noodle house that specialises in handmade udon with spring, bounce and loads of flavour.

Hidden down an alley in the CBD’s east, Hifumiya has no right to be this busy. But come lunchtime, the Japanese-style beer hall fills with crowds fixing for some of the city’s best noodles.

It’s a clientele drawn by the promise of udon made to exacting standards by owner Daisuke Hiramatsu and his team, who roll out dough daily according to the recipe he brought to Perth from his home town of Kurashiki. The result is noodles with spring and bounce, slipped into warmed bowls in front of you, then topped with a dashi broth and extras.

Pick the original and a sheet of fried bean curd joins an onsen egg atop the delicate noodle soup; keep it simple with a “kake” and spring onion is the sole accoutrement.

Pick the original and a sheet of fried bean curd joins an onsen egg atop the delicate noodle soup; keep it simple with a “kake” and spring onion is the sole accoutrement. There’s scope, too, with dry udon (the kamatama mentai, with cod roe and butter, is particularly memorable) joining a list of rice bowls, and specials adding sudachi or tempura to the mix.

Come night, the space morphs into Jigoro, an izakaya where a decent sake list adds interest to the range of Japanese beers. But even then the udon remains the lead act. Let it steal the show.