The Wolkowinski family’s seductive American diner/French bistro is a testament to their relentless push to keep customers happy amid fads and economic swings and roundabouts. A 2017 refurb – which saw the words Wine Bar tacked on to the end of the restaurant’s name – has been bedded down and the overall offering has gone up a notch this year.

Heritage’s wine list is truly epic: 100 titles by the glass at price points ranging from the low teens to the mid-hundreds per glass. The list has attracted national attention and so it should have.

On the food side of the business chef Matt Carulei’s menu plays with preconceived notions of savoury and sweet; not in a Heston, mad scientist way, but with smart use of textures and flavours. Before main plates arrive, you might smash their selection of snacks which include a glossy “Goose Mousse” of airy goose-liver parfait piped on to brioche toast and scattered with hazelnuts; tiger prawns with pad Thai caramel; or smoked beef shin with bone marrow (the Good Food Guide team’s go-to favourite).

The marrow is plucked from the bone, tossed with shredded beef shin, and daintily re-plated with tiny broccoli florets on an underlay of freshly smoked paperbark, which adds a sense of theatre – and char – to the dish. We also liked the first-rate salumi selection, which includes good charcuterie and breads, and usually, a quenelle of spicy, peppy nduja and house-made pickles.

The dining room is one of the best eating spaces in Perth. Modern, yet classic, with a little bit of French bistro and a little bit of “up-east” American posh about it. Service is sleek and proper.

The genius behind the 100 wines list is the effervescent James Gentile. He likes nothing better than helping you find your perfect wine. You might like a $113 glass of Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey 2009 Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru chardonnay Cote de Beaune.

Go on, spoil yourself.