The Wolkowinski family, long-term, professional hospitality players in Perth, gave their heritage-listed St Georges Terrace restaurant a makeover in mid-2017. It was an entirely pragmatic gesture to liven-up the place and hopefully attract more customers. It also happens to be the best things that’s happened to the place.

Their big thing is a 100 by-the-glass wine list with everything from a $13 quaffer to a $450 Bordeaux available by the glass. It is an extraordinary undertaking and a marvellous idea. It takes the idea of having a glass with each course (who wants a full bottle these days – especially for business lunches) to its ultimate conclusion.

The food has become more casual yet it remains in sync with the dining rooms lofty heritage beauty and the American grille meets Prague bistro interiors. There is a sense of occasion about the food, but the menu has loosened its collar, to be an altogether more engaging food offer. It’s a surprisingly big menu in an age where small is good.

There’s a subtle rococo glitz to the place too.

Matt Carulei is a chef with a serious CV and his dishes – often at the avant-garde end of the spectrum – are calmer and more luxe here that at some of his earlier berths. His style of cooking suits the venue precisely.

There are a number of charcuterie options for starters. Make sure you order the nduja – the spicy salami paste from Calabria – it is the best we’ve eaten anywhere. Dishes like charred cauliflower with saffron risoni and miso buttermilk are an insight into Carulei’s thinking (it’s food you know, but there’s always a twist). We love the way he doubles down on pig flesh with his pork tenderloin,charred spring cabbage, lardons and mustard. Perhaps a little bit of Korea is your thing: wagyu beef rump cap bulgogi with crunchy potatoes and rainbow chard, is your go-to dish.

Check out the new look Heritage. It’s better than ever.