There was a collective sigh of disappointment across WA when hospitality heavyweights Carolynne and Hadleigh Troy closed Restaurant Amuse, their hallowed hall of high-end dining in East Perth, last year.

So what do such talented operators do when they retreat from the buzz of having one of the nation’s finest restaurants? They get their life back and they get to do food which, although casual and café-like, is still of great prowess.

Hushed, reverential dining has been replaced with bright, light and breezy as the Troys bring warm and welcoming sunshine to a rather unprepossessing corner of Vic Park. Cafe food? Yes, but hold the bruschetta. Think black pudding on toast, chicken-liver parfait, pulled chicken and, yes, even banana bread – all with a distinctive Troy twist. As for the eggs? Crab omelette (our favourite).

Go for Friday lunch and linger on the terrace with a late-arvo glass of chardy.