As you’d expect from Andy Freeman’s oeuvre, Hadiqa is cool as. And built on brilliant booze – with an Arabic twist.

Last year’s highest-profile bar opening has overcome early wobbles via a tighter menu and settled service. Moorish screens, tiles and a faux fern wall soften the narrow, long room, where silky vibes play out.

An amuse bouche of chilled, sweet mint tea evokes Chefchaouen, and the North African flavours woven throughout the menu are exemplary. Whimsical crispy-pork and chip “butty” (kebab) is a serious contender for Perth’s best late-night snack, but the kitchen has an extra gear if required.

Say fragrant diced, firm beef cheek in a rich apricot, sesame and roasted chickpea gravy, or razor thin fennel, fetta and orange salad and soft toffee.